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- Anchor gear comprises the anchor, shackle, possibly a swivel, chain or chain with rode, the anchor windlass with matching gypsy, a chain stopper and a snubber.<\/li>\n
- Every anchor type has its favourite bottom: sand and firm mud usually hold well, weed and rock are difficult for many anchors.<\/li>\n
- As a lower limit, about 3:1 between deployed length and depth applies; around 5:1 is usual, in stronger wind 7:1 to 8:1. Measured from the bow roller to the seabed.<\/li>\n
- Chain size and windlass gypsy must match. Refer to the windlass manufacturer's table.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
What does anchor gear consist of?<\/h2>\n
Anchor gear is the entire connection from the seabed to the foredeck, not just the anchor. Every part must suit the load, because the weakest link determines what the whole assembly can withstand.<\/p>\n
![\"Anchor](\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/10\/ankergeschirr-anker-bugbeschlag-kette-1024x683.jpg\")
<\/p>\nFrom the bottom upwards come anchor, shackle, possibly a swivel, chain and often a rode, then windlass, chain stopper and, with all-chain, a snubber.<\/p>\n
How does an anchor hold?<\/h2>\n
An anchor holds not by its weight, but because it digs in and pushes bottom material ahead of it. This only works if the pull sets in as flat as possible to the seabed.<\/p>\n
If the chain leads steeply upwards, it levers the point out of the bottom. Modern anchors differ chiefly in how reliably they settle into the right attitude and how they react when the wind shifts.<\/p>\n
What anchor types are found on sailing yachts?<\/h2>\n
On cruising yachts you mainly find plough, rollbar and scoop, claw and plate anchors. Fisherman anchors have become rare. Brand names here are given only as examples of the type.<\/p>\n
Plough anchor with hinge (CQR type)<\/h3>\n
The classic plough anchor has a hinged shank and a fluke shaped like a ploughshare that furrows into the bottom as it sets. In sand and mud it can hold well. But it needs the right attitude on the bottom to set, the hinge wears, and in thick weed it does not always set reliably.<\/p>\n
Delta anchor with fixed shank<\/h3>\n
The Delta anchor is a ploughshare with a rigid shank and a weighted point. The low centre of gravity rights it on the bottom and it slides off the bow roller by itself as you pay out.<\/p>\n
Rollbar anchors and modern scoop anchors<\/h3>\n
Rollbar anchors have a curved, scoop-shaped fluke with a sharp point and a roll bar above. The bar rotates the anchor on contact so the point aims downwards. An example of this type is the Rocna. There are also scoop anchors without a bar that right themselves by ballast in the point. According to manufacturers, such anchors suit sand, mud, clay and weed. Rock is not their speciality either, and in sticky mud or thick weed a rollbar can clog.<\/p>\n
Claw anchor (Bruce type)<\/h3>\n
The claw anchor has three broad flukes and no moving parts. It usually copes with sandy and stony ground, less so in soft mud, and generally rights itself after breaking out. Without a suitable bow fitting it is difficult to stow. Relative to its weight it holds rather little and therefore tends to be larger. The original is no longer manufactured, but copies are widespread.<\/p>\n
Fluke anchor (Danforth type, also in aluminium)<\/h3>\n
Fluke anchors have two large, flat flukes that pivot around a cross stock. They hold well in sand and mud and can be stowed flat. On some aluminium versions the fluke angle can be adjusted for soft mud. On weed, hard sand and rock the flukes can slide over the ground, and in strong wind shifts a fluke anchor breaks out easily. Many therefore use it as a second or stern anchor.<\/p>\n
Stock anchor (Admiralty anchor)<\/h3>\n
On a stock anchor a long stock sits across the arms. It tips the anchor so that one arm digs into the seabed. This type is hardly to be found on modern cruising yachts any more.<\/p>\n
Which anchor suits which ground?<\/h3>\n
The overview is a general assessment. How well an anchor holds depends in each case on the ground, weight and setting.<\/p>\n