{"id":24096,"date":"2021-09-08T15:25:05","date_gmt":"2021-09-08T13:25:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/?p=24096"},"modified":"2026-09-03T20:55:57","modified_gmt":"2026-09-03T18:55:57","slug":"under-spell-cyclades","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/segelblog\/toernbericht-im-rausch-der-kykladen\/","title":{"rendered":"The magic of the Cyclades: Two weeks of island hopping in the Aegean"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>White cottages and windmills, crystal-clear water and secluded bays, rustic tavernas and Greek wine, sleepy fishing villages and trendy hotspots: the Cyclades offer all this and much more. This trip report describes a two-week island-hopping adventure in the central island group of the Aegean, including a detour into the Saronic Gulf. The sailing takes place in the early season, which means on the one hand that the harbours and anchorages are not quite as crowded, and on the other that the Meltemi is not yet as pronounced as in the months of July and August.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>Sailing area:<\/strong> Aegean &#8211; Cyclades\/Saronic Gulf<br \/>\n<strong>Route:<\/strong> Athens &#8211; Kythnos &#8211; Syros &#8211; Mykonos &#8211; Naxos &#8211; Schinoussa &#8211; Ios &#8211; Santorini &#8211; Folegandros &#8211; Milos &#8211; Hydra &#8211; Poros &#8211; Athens<br \/>\n<strong>Nautical miles:<\/strong> 380<br \/>\n<strong>Travel dates:<\/strong> Late May\/Early June 2021<br \/>\n<strong>Sailing yacht:<\/strong> Bavaria 46 Cruiser (built 2016)<br \/>\n<strong>Charter company:<\/strong> Navigare Yachting<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Saturday &#8211; Arrival at the marina<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>With great anticipation of the Cyclades island world, we, a charter crew from Germany, step aboard our home for the next two weeks on Saturday evening. We have chosen a Bavaria 46 Cruiser (built 2016) with 4 cabins, 3 toilets and a separate shower. As there are only five of us sailing, the space on offer is comfortable.<\/p>\n<p>The yacht is moored at Agios Kosmos Marina in Athens and is equipped with an in-mast furling system and a bow thruster. The charter company offers a video check-in beforehand, which provides a first impression of the yacht's most important functions. However, a complete handover of the yacht is still carried out on site. The charter company organises a transfer to the nearest supermarket, so that even late in the evening we manage to get our provisions and stow them away.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Sunday &#8211; Athens to Kythnos &#8211; 45 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24031\" style=\"width: 402px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24031\" class=\"wp-image-24031\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos2-min-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Kolona Kythnos\" width=\"392\" height=\"294\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos2-min-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos2-min-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos2-min-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos2-min-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos2-min.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 392px) 100vw, 392px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24031\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kythnos &#8211; Phykiada Bay &#8211; View from the anchorage towards the beach<\/p><\/div>\n<p>After breakfast on board and the crew safety briefing, we leave Agios Kosmos Marina and set off for the Cyclades. As expected due to the wind shadow of Attica and as forecast in the weather report, the wind in the Saronic Gulf is not sufficient for setting sails. We motor along, getting used to the yacht and enjoying the sunshine and the view of the Attica coast.<\/p>\n<p>As if at the press of a button, the wind picks up at Cape Sounion (the cape at the southernmost tip of Attica) and we can set the sails for the first time. After brief problems with the in-mast furling system (the classic: the sail jammed when unfurling), we are able to make our way to Kythnos at wind force 4 with northerly winds. When furling the mainsail, we notice that this only works properly with the mast winch. However, it should not cause us any further problems for the rest of the trip (even though when furling the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/sailing-blog\/sails-sailing-boat-overview\/\">mainsail<\/a> someone always had to go forward to the mast).<\/p>\n<p>For our first night in the northern Cyclades, we have chosen Phykiada Bay, located on the west side of Kythnos. As the spots right by the beach are already taken, we anchor slightly apart in the eastern part of the bay at about 5 metres depth on sand. Paralia Kolona beach separates Phykiada Bay from Kolona Bay, so that it is surrounded by water on both sides. After the obligatory sundowner, we enjoy the crystal-clear water whilst snorkelling and swimming.<\/p>\n<p>Then it is also time for the first use of our dinghy. We go ashore and visit the restaurant above the beach (Kolona Experience). From here we enjoy the sunset with a fantastic view of both bays. After dinner, part of the restaurant (spontaneously) turns into a dance floor and we round off our first evening here. It is a wonderful bay and a real first highlight of our Cyclades trip. As many charter crews start in Athens and Lavrion, this spot is quite busy on Sundays. It is advisable to be there a little earlier, especially in high season. The same applies to making a reservation at the restaurant (there is no alternative nearby).<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Monday &#8211; Kythnos to Syros &#8211; 31 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>We spend a quiet night at anchor. Part of the crew takes the dinghy ashore to walk along the beach to the offshore rocky island of Agios Loukas. From here it is a half-hour climb to the Agios Loukas chapel. The plateau by the chapel offers a wonderful view of the bay and the boats anchored on both sides of the sandy beach.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_24036\" style=\"width: 1312px\" class=\"wp-caption alignnone\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24036\" class=\"fullwidth-img wp-image-24036\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos8-min-300x114.jpg\" alt=\"View from the chapel Agios Loukas\" width=\"1302\" height=\"495\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos8-min-300x114.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos8-min-600x229.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos8-min-1024x390.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos8-min-768x293.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Kythnos8-min.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1302px) 100vw, 1302px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24036\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Kythnos &#8211; View from Agios Loukas chapel of the two bays Kolona and Phykiada<\/p><\/div>\n<p>After the short morning hike and a communal breakfast on board, we prepare the boat for departure, weigh anchor and motor against the wind northwards towards Cape Kefalos. The wind is somewhat weaker and more inconsistent than forecast. Shortly beyond the cape we set the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/sailing-blog\/sails-sailing-boat-overview\/\">Segel<\/a> to sail towards Syros in moderate northerly winds (wind force 3 to 4). Our destination for the day is the harbour of Finikas in the bay of Phoinika on the southwest coast of Syros.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_24067\" style=\"width: 423px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24067\" class=\"wp-image-24067\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros1-min-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Finikas harbour Syros\" width=\"413\" height=\"310\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros1-min-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros1-min-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros1-min-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros1-min-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros1-min.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 413px) 100vw, 413px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24067\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Syros &#8211; Berth in Finikas harbour<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We reach the harbour in the early afternoon and moor at the southern quay (outside) with bow anchor. As this type of mooring (Mediterranean-style with bow anchor) is common in the Cyclades, we use the empty harbour and light winds to practise the manoeuvre a few more times. Here we notice for the first time that after operating the remote control (anchor down), the anchor chain runs out completely. The anchor chain safety line holds, so we do not lose the anchor. We readjust the anchor winch brake and believe we have solved the problem. As we discover later in the trip, this is not the case.<\/p>\n<p>The harbour offers showers\/toilets, electricity\/water at the quay and diesel by tanker. There are several tavernas and shops along the harbour promenade. In the small village there is a lovely caf\u00e9 with fresh baked goods. Although we are sailing in the early season, the harbour is full by late afternoon. Those who arrive late can anchor well protected from northerly winds not far from the harbour basin. We round off the day in one of the harbour tavernas. Alternatively, from the harbour one could take the bus, hire a car or take a taxi to visit Ermoupoli, the main town on the east of Syros.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Tuesday &#8211; Syros to Mykonos &#8211; 27 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>Some of us start the morning with a hike up the nearby imposing mountain. However, it looked considerably easier from the harbour. The ascent can only be tackled by climbing in places, so it takes us almost 2 hours to reach the summit.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_24069\" style=\"width: 404px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24069\" class=\"wp-image-24069\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros3-min-300x212.jpg\" alt=\"Syros mountain peak\" width=\"394\" height=\"278\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros3-min-300x212.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros3-min-600x423.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros3-min-1024x722.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros3-min-768x542.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Syros3-min.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 394px) 100vw, 394px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24069\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Syros \u2013 View from the summit to Finikas harbour<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We are rewarded with a magnificent view over the bay. Fortunately, we find a somewhat easier way back down. Breakfast is at the little caf\u00e9 in the village. The crew who stayed on the boat has thankfully already filled the water tanks, so we can set off directly after returning to the boat. We motor southwards towards Cape Velostasi. Due to the northerly wind, even after passing the cape there is not enough wind for sailing because of the land shadow. Only after we have completely passed Syros do we set the sails and sail towards Mykonos at force 5.<\/p>\n<p>Due to the popularity of the berths in Mykonos Marina, we reserved a place by text message the day before. As requested by the harbour master, we send another text message half an hour before arrival. This is promptly answered and we are told we can enter the marina. A short time later we furl the sails and prepare for the berth. At precisely this moment the wind suddenly strengthens to storm force. The gusts reach up to 46 knots in the marina entrance. The harbour master is waiting on his moped on the quay at the harbour entrance and assigns us a berth in the first harbour basin. Our berth lies directly into the wind, so we can berth stern-to against the wind with heavy use of the engine. In the meantime, the harbour master has arrived at the berth on his moped and takes our stern lines and helps us with the mooring line. The berthing beer was well deserved!<\/p>\n<p>The mooring fees (12 euros) are astonishingly low, as throughout the Cyclades. Electricity and water are available on the pontoon. We take the water taxi from the marina to Mykonos town and spend the evening in the pretty alleyways and visit the famous windmills. After a cocktail and dinner on the promenade, we make our way back to the marina on foot. The route follows the coastal road (little traffic at night) and takes 45 minutes.<\/p>\n<p>Impressions from Mykonos:<\/p>\n<p><strong><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-24053\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos11-min-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Mykonos windmills\" width=\"502\" height=\"377\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos11-min-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos11-min-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos11-min-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos11-min.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 502px) 100vw, 502px\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-24052\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos10-min-300x300.jpg\" alt=\"Cocktail Mykonos\" width=\"377\" height=\"377\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos10-min-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos10-min-200x200.jpg 200w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos10-min-600x600.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos10-min-1024x1024.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos10-min-150x150.jpg 150w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos10-min-768x768.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos10-min.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 377px) 100vw, 377px\" \/><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"alignnone wp-image-24046\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos3-min-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Alleyways Mykonos\" width=\"283\" height=\"377\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos3-min-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos3-min-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos3-min-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Mykonos3-min.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 283px) 100vw, 283px\" \/><\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Wednesday \u2013 Mykonos to Naxos \u2013 27 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24057\" style=\"width: 611px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24057\" class=\"wp-image-24057\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Naxos2-min-e1631052136388-300x140.jpg\" alt=\"Naxos harbour\" width=\"601\" height=\"281\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Naxos2-min-e1631052136388-300x140.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Naxos2-min-e1631052136388-600x280.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Naxos2-min-e1631052136388-1024x478.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Naxos2-min-e1631052136388-768x359.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Naxos2-min-e1631052136388.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 601px) 100vw, 601px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24057\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Naxos \u2013 View of the promenade at the harbour<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The wind has eased a little overnight, so after breakfast (at a restaurant adjoining the marina) we cast off. Outside the marina there is insufficient wind. We begin the sailing day under engine. We pass south of the island of Delos and set the sails shortly afterwards. With the following wind, we can practise goose-winging for the first time. At force 3 to 4, we make our relaxed way towards Naxos.<\/p>\n<p>Naxos is the largest island of the Cyclades and is known for its beaches, ancient ruins and mountain villages. We reach our destination, Naxos Marina, in the early afternoon. We make fast bow-to directly at the first pontoon. Crew and skipper are relieved that there are no problems with the bow anchor. Electricity and water are on the pontoon.<\/p>\n<p>We spend the afternoon strolling along the harbour promenade and through the narrow alleyways between the whitewashed houses. Some of us go for a short walk up the adjoining hills. We round off the evening at a taverna on the promenade.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Thursday \u2013 Naxos to Schinoussa \u2013 23 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24065\" style=\"width: 295px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24065\" class=\"wp-image-24065\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Schinoussa2-min-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Schinoussa anchorage\" width=\"285\" height=\"380\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Schinoussa2-min-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Schinoussa2-min-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Schinoussa2-min.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 285px) 100vw, 285px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24065\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Schinoussa \u2013 Anchorage in Myrsini Bay<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Having spent the last three nights in harbours, today's destination is to be a beautiful anchorage again. We cast off late in the morning and sail with following winds (force 3 to 4) southwards towards the Small Cyclades.<\/p>\n<p>The Small Cyclades are a group of around 30 islands to the southeast of Naxos. We decide spontaneously on Myrsini Bay on Schinoussa. It is a beautiful bay with crystal-clear water, where you are very well protected from northerly winds. The bay has a small harbour which the ferry also uses. However, we are not at all bothered by the ferry. On the one hand, it only runs twice a day; on the other, we barely noticed anyone getting on or off, which is probably due to the low season. We anchor in the middle of the bay at 5 metres depth. Two other boats have made fast bow-to at the quay, but we are the only boat at anchor.<\/p>\n<p>The Chora, as the main village is called on most Cycladic islands, is on the next hill (30 minutes on foot). Here you will find a few tavernas and shops (including a baker). In the evening we go ashore in the dinghy. We eat at one of the two tavernas right by the harbour. From here we have a beautiful view over the bay and our boat.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Friday \u2013 Schinoussa to Ios \u2013 26 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24025\" style=\"width: 325px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24025\" class=\"wp-image-24025\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IOS2-min-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Ios harbour berth\" width=\"315\" height=\"420\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IOS2-min-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IOS2-min-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IOS2-min-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IOS2-min.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 315px) 100vw, 315px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24025\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Ios \u2013 Berth in the harbour<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We have breakfast on board, go for a swim, weigh anchor and leave the bay. We sail in moderate wind in a north-westerly direction. We pass the island of Iraklia (the largest island of the Small Cyclades) to the north. Later, after we have passed Iraklia, the wind freshens a little and we sail on a broad reach towards Ios. Our destination is Gialos, the island's main harbour. The village promises a beautiful sandy beach and several restaurants and caf\u00e9s. From here there are also very good ferry connections, which suits us as one of our crew will be leaving us the next morning.<\/p>\n<p>To escape the swell from the ferries a little, we try to berth at the eastern pier. According to the well-known harbour guides, mooring lines are laid out here, their anchorage marked by a yellow buoy. On arrival in the harbour basin we also see a free berth at the east pier and head for it. However, a yacht already moored there calls out to us that the mooring lines are not present, as it is pre-season. So we repeat the manoeuvre once more, this time with a bow anchor. We gladly accept the tip from the person calling out and drop the anchor behind the mooring anchorage (easily visible thanks to the yellow buoy described above).<\/p>\n<p>At the pier there is water and electricity by card, which can be purchased at the shop opposite or from the tourist office. At the local fishing tackle shop we stock up on bait and fishing line in order to catch our own fish in the second week (to cut a long story short: it remains an attempt, not a single bite all week). After dinner on the harbour promenade we walk up to Ios Town, the island's main settlement, which is connected to the harbour by a long flight of steps. Ios Town is known as a party spot and offers numerous bars and restaurants in the centre. Today, however, because of coronavirus, closing time is midnight.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Saturday \u2013 Ios to Thira \u2013 25 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24062\" style=\"width: 382px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24062\" class=\"wp-image-24062\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Santorin2-min-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Santorini Oia \" width=\"372\" height=\"279\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Santorin2-min-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Santorin2-min-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Santorin2-min-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Santorin2-min-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Santorin2-min.jpg 1280w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 372px) 100vw, 372px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24062\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thira \u2013 view from Oia of the small harbour and the buoy field<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The skipper of the yacht moored next to us has spent the last few days in Santorini, our destination today. Since the berth and anchorage situation in Santorini does not seem straightforward according to various sailing area guides, we gladly accept the skipper's current information. We are told that below Oia (island of Thira) there are about 10 buoys to which one can moor.<\/p>\n<p>In the morning we cast off with great anticipation and set course directly for Santorini with a broad reach (wind force 3). Already from a distance we recognise the Santorini archipelago, consisting of the islands Thira, Thirasia and Aspronisi arranged in a ring. They form the rim of this imposing caldera, which has a diameter of about 16 km. In the centre of the caldera lie the islands Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni.<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_24074\" style=\"width: 494px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24074\" class=\"wp-image-24074\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Thira3-min-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"View over the Aegean Thira\" width=\"484\" height=\"363\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Thira3-min-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Thira3-min-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Thira3-min-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Thira3-min-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Thira3-min-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Thira3-min.jpg 2016w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 484px) 100vw, 484px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24074\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Thira \u2013 view from Fir\u00e1<\/p><\/div>\n<p>Approaching from the north, we enter the archipelago and then keep to the east. We sail along Thira's steep coast until we see the first white houses at the top and a small harbour below. Two hundred metres further on we see the aforementioned buoys, which are anchored in about 30 metres water depth. We take the first free buoy and make fast to it.<\/p>\n<p>In the late afternoon we take the dinghy to the small harbour and then climb the rather steep steps for about half an hour to reach Oia. We visit the promenade, which winds along the cliff edge and offers numerous restaurants, caf\u00e9s and boutiques.<\/p>\n<p>In the evening we take a taxi to Fir\u00e1, the capital of Santorini. Fir\u00e1 is famous for its narrow streets and the dreamlike view over the white houses towards the caldera and the blue sea. We dine at one of the many restaurants whose terraces offer a perfect view. After the taxi ride back to Oia we have a nightcap there and take the dinghy back to the boat, where we spend a peaceful night.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Sunday \u2013 Thira to Folegandros \u2013 34 nautical miles<br \/>\n<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24018\" style=\"width: 370px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24018\" class=\"wp-image-24018\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros1-min-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Vathy Bay Folegandros\" width=\"360\" height=\"270\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros1-min-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros1-min-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros1-min-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros1-min-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros1-min-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros1-min.jpg 2016w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 360px) 100vw, 360px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24018\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Folegandros \u2013 view of Vathy Bay<\/p><\/div>\n<p>After Thira was indeed very beautiful, but rather touristy, we have chosen a solitary and quiet anchorage on Folegandros for today. The first part of the route leads under engine through the caldera. We admire the white houses perched on the rocks above. From the water we can still see the harbour of Fir\u00e1, which is connected to the town by steep steps. Alternatively one can cover the difference in height by cable car.<\/p>\n<p>We leave the caldera, set sails in light winds and sail leisurely towards Vathy Bay. The bay is on the south side of Folegandros and would offer sufficient shelter even in the Meltemi. We anchor in 5 metres on sand and have the entire bay to ourselves. On the beach (Agkali) there is a taverna and two small caf\u00e9s which also serve snacks and breakfast.<\/p>\n<p>Part of the group goes swimming, the other part goes on a walk to the chapel of Christ\u00f3s, which offers a wonderful view of the bay. This evening we also discover that we have a pantry on the yacht and make use of it: the first dinner on board!<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Monday \u2013 Folegandros to Milos \u2013 32 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24023\" style=\"width: 554px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24023\" class=\"wp-image-24023\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros6-min-e1630963923149-300x170.jpg\" alt=\"Vathy Bay Folegandros\" width=\"544\" height=\"308\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros6-min-e1630963923149-300x170.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros6-min-e1630963923149-600x340.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros6-min-e1630963923149-1024x581.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros6-min-e1630963923149-768x436.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros6-min-e1630963923149-1536x872.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Folegandros6-min-e1630963923149.jpg 2016w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 544px) 100vw, 544px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24023\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Folegandros \u2013 view over the bathing platform towards Vathy Bay<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We start the day with a leisurely breakfast at the caf\u00e9. Later we have another swim in the solitary bay. In the late morning we weigh anchor and set off for Milos, the southwesternmost of the Cyclades.<\/p>\n<p>The wind has freshened somewhat, so we sail close-hauled in wind force 4\/5. After passing Kimolos we change to a beam reach towards the small offshore island of Akradhia. We leave the island to starboard, take in the sails and motor into the extensive Milou Bay, which reaches deep into the island and on the chart looks like a horseshoe.<\/p>\n<p>Our destination is the harbour of Adamas, where we moor stern-to on the outside of the eastern jetty with a bow anchor. No mooring fees are charged, water and electricity are at the jetty. The town offers a promenade with various restaurants, caf\u00e9s and a supermarket. From the town a small unpaved road leads towards Plaka, the main settlement on Milos. In the evening we visit one of the fish restaurants on the promenade. Afterwards we are invited by sailors from Germany onto their catamaran, where the evening ends with a few drinks and music.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Tuesday \u2013 harbour day Milos<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24043\" style=\"width: 635px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24043\" class=\"wp-image-24043\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Milos-min-e1630963708805-300x190.jpg\" alt=\"Milos harbour\" width=\"625\" height=\"396\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Milos-min-e1630963708805-300x190.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Milos-min-e1630963708805-600x381.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Milos-min-e1630963708805-768x488.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Milos-min-e1630963708805.jpg 1024w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 625px) 100vw, 625px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24043\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Milos \u2013 view of the harbour and the promenade<\/p><\/div>\n<p>The day is dedicated to relaxation and preparation for the planned overnight passage to Hydra. Accordingly, we sleep in, linger in caf\u00e9s and restaurants, and sleep again. There's also time to stock up on provisions and refill the water tanks.<\/p>\n<p>Towards late afternoon the wind picks up and a very unpleasant swell enters the bay. Some boats have problems with their anchors, leave their berth and move to the other side of the pontoon, which is sheltered from the swell.<\/p>\n<p>As the situation becomes even more unpleasant, we haul in the anchor chain by about a metre. As a precaution, we also run a line from our midship cleat to the bow cleat of the neighbouring catamaran, who has managed to pick up one of the few mooring lines in addition to his anchor. The harbourmaster seems familiar with the situation and walks along the pontoon asking the yachts whether they need assistance.<\/p>\n<p>Although the weather forecasts available to us look good for the night, the harbourmaster recommends on the basis of his weather information not to leave the bay but to wait a bit longer. Since we're under no time pressure whatsoever, we postpone our departure until the next morning.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Wednesday &#8211; Milos to Hydra &#8211; 68 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24024\" style=\"width: 390px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24024\" class=\"wp-image-24024\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Hydra1-min-225x300.jpg\" alt=\"Mandraki Bay Hydra\" width=\"380\" height=\"506\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Hydra1-min-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Hydra1-min-600x800.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Hydra1-min-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Hydra1-min.jpg 960w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 380px) 100vw, 380px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24024\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Hydra &#8211; view of Mandraki Bay<\/p><\/div>\n<p>To still get a bit of night sailing feeling and to enjoy the sunrise outside the bay, we decide to cast off at 5 a.m. Furthermore, we hope that despite the long distance, we'll reach Hydra earlier and secure one of the hotly contested berths there.<\/p>\n<p>The sailing conditions are excellent for the first part of the passage. At wind force 6 we sail on beam and close reaches towards our destination. However, as we approach the Saronic Gulf the wind drops, so we have to motor for part of the last quarter of the route. For over 20 minutes we're accompanied by a pod of dolphins playing extensively with our bow wave.<\/p>\n<p>Although we reach the harbour of Hydra in the early afternoon, yachts are already lying in second and third rows on both sides of the harbour basin. The entrance to the small harbour is also narrowed by the ferries mooring there. Since boats moor stern-to with bow anchor on both sides, an anchor tangle in the middle of the harbour basin is inevitable. Divers seem to have specialised in this, gladly helping for EUR 150. After some consideration we ultimately decide to moor in the third row. And it's precisely here that our anchor windlass acts up again and 80 metres of anchor chain rush out. We're positioned in front of the ferry berth at the entrance to the basin. Suddenly we're the main attraction in the harbour cinema: our anchor windlass couldn't have chosen a worse location and timing. To make matters worse, the ferry now comes steaming in. Ultimately we manage to hold the boat in position, feed the anchor chain back into the windlass and raise the anchor. We secure the anchor and leave the harbour basin.<\/p>\n<p>After that incident, we weren't particularly keen on a second attempt at mooring in the narrow harbour with our anchor windlass. We decide to head for Mandraki Bay, lying one nautical mile to the east. We anchor, this time without complications, in the middle of the bay in about 20 metres depth. The bay offers a sandy beach, a taverna and water taxis to Hydra. Alternatively, you can walk 25 minutes along the coast to Hydra town. Part of our crew heads to Hydra by water taxi, the other part relaxes in the bay. The skipper secures the anchor chain against running out again. It should be the best-secured anchor chain in the bay.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Thursday &#8211; Hydra to Poros &#8211; 13 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<div id=\"attachment_24060\" style=\"width: 366px\" class=\"wp-caption alignleft\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24060\" class=\"wp-image-24060\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Poros2-min-300x225.jpg\" alt=\"Poros promenade\" width=\"356\" height=\"267\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Poros2-min-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Poros2-min-600x450.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Poros2-min-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Poros2-min-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Poros2-min-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Poros2-min.jpg 2016w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 356px) 100vw, 356px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24060\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Poros &#8211; view of the promenade<\/p><\/div>\n<p>This morning we take it easy. We watch the other boats weighing anchor and have breakfast on board. In the southeast of the bay we see another boat needing a diver. The remains of a wreck are said to lie here, in which anchors like to snag.<\/p>\n<p>In the early afternoon we set off on the short passage to Poros, the island northeast of the Peloponnese. Approaching from the east, we pass through the Steno Porou channel, which separates Poros from the town of Galatas on the mainland, and moor stern-to with bow anchor at the pier on the west side of the peninsula. One of the restaurant owners on the promenade takes our stern lines (naturally we receive in return a detailed description of the way to his restaurant). We spend the rest of the day strolling along the promenade.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<h2><strong>Friday &#8211; Poros to Athens &#8211; 29 nautical miles<\/strong><\/h2>\n<p>The last sailing day has arrived. The wind forecasts are excellent and we manage to set the trip's speed record on our final leg. In the end we see 9.6 knots on the display (at wind force 6 on a beam reach).<\/p>\n<div id=\"attachment_24015\" style=\"width: 581px\" class=\"wp-caption alignright\"><img decoding=\"async\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-24015\" class=\"wp-image-24015\" src=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Athen2-min-e1630964001246-300x122.jpg\" alt=\"Athens - to the Acropolis\" width=\"571\" height=\"232\" srcset=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Athen2-min-e1630964001246-300x122.jpg 300w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Athen2-min-e1630964001246-600x244.jpg 600w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Athen2-min-e1630964001246-1024x417.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Athen2-min-e1630964001246-768x313.jpg 768w, https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Athen2-min-e1630964001246.jpg 1512w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 571px) 100vw, 571px\" \/><p id=\"caption-attachment-24015\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Athens &#8211; view of the Acropolis<\/p><\/div>\n<p>We leave Poros late in the morning. Our first destination is Kipou Bay on the island of Aegina, where we stop for an extended swimming break. We anchor in 5 metres depth in crystal-clear water. In the late afternoon we return to Agio Kosmos Marina. The charter company's staff are already waiting there and help with mooring. The fuel attendant comes directly to the pontoon, the check-out proceeds quickly and without complications. We inform the charter company about our problem with the anchor windlass. They order a technician to inspect it the next morning.<\/p>\n<p>For our last evening we've booked a flat in Athens' old town, where we let the day wind down with plenty of Greek wine and a cocktail overlooking the Acropolis.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p>Fancy a sailing trip in the Aegean? Here you'll find offers for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/cabin-charter-aegean\/\">Sailing in the Aegean<\/a> and for <a href=\"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/cabin-charter-greece\/\">Sailing in Greece<\/a>.<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>White cottages and windmills, crystal-clear water and secluded bays, rustic taverns and Greek wine, dreamy fishing villages and trendy hotspots: the Cyclades offer all this and much more. This trip report describes a two-week island-hopping adventure through the central island group of the Aegean, including a detour into the Saronic Gulf. Sailing takes place in the early season, which means on the one hand&hellip;<\/p>","protected":false},"author":67,"featured_media":24054,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[333],"tags":[339,352,348,356,340,350,347,354,355,336,343,349,344,341,353,345,351,357,338,342,346,337],"class_list":["post-24096","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-toernbericht","tag-aegaeis","tag-athen","tag-bucht","tag-folegandros","tag-griechenland","tag-hydra","tag-ios","tag-kolona","tag-kolona-bucht","tag-kykladen","tag-kythnos","tag-mandraki","tag-milos","tag-mykonos","tag-phykiada-bucht","tag-santorin","tag-saronischer-golf","tag-schinoussa","tag-segeln","tag-syros","tag-thira","tag-toernbericht","category-333","description-off"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24096","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/67"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=24096"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24096\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":1519530,"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/24096\/revisions\/1519530"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/24054"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=24096"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=24096"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.toernfinder.de\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=24096"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}