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Family sailing trip in August for swimming and splashing around the Kvarner. We had a wonderful time in Croatia. There was even some wind for sailing and the food was excellent! The little towns we visited – Cres, Mali Lošinj, Susak and Unije – were all really nice and very welcoming.
Country: Croatia
Departure: ACI Pomer
Destination: ACI Pomer
Route: ACI Pomer - ACI Cres - Mali Lošinj - Susak - Uvala Maracol - ACI Pomer
Nautical miles: 104
Travel dates: 17.08.2024 – 24.08.2024
Sailing yacht: Monohull, Beneteau Oceanis 40.1, 40 feet
Charter company: Dreamyacht
Trip report ACI Pomer -> ACI Pomer, 1 week 17.08. - 24.08.24
Since this was our first sailing trip together as a whole family, we travelled on the Wednesday and spent 3 lovely days in Šišan above Medulin at the beautiful Landhotel Vela Nera. We visited Medulin, Pula and Rovinj and acclimatised well. On Saturday we bought the fresh provisions; we'd already brought the rest from Germany and were able to board the boat (Beneteau Oceanis 40.1 from 2023) at 1 p.m. with early check-in.
Then things got a bit hectic for me, because whilst stowing everything no one knew where things should go and I had to check over the boat at the same time. At some point between 4 and 5 p.m. we were finally able to cast off, cruised around the bay of Medulin, had a look at Uvala (bay) Portić, which was quite crowded, and then anchored opposite the marina in front of the mussel farm for a quiet night. [2sm]
On Sunday we set off in calm weather under motor towards Cres. The children were still asleep and my beloved and I went to raise the anchor at 0615h for sunrise. On the way all the children gradually woke up. We looked at the Zaglav lighthouse and anchored for swimming in Uvala Grabrovica at 10–12m. Unfortunately the pin in the outboard prop had broken and we had no spare. So we skipped going ashore and just swam and snorkelled from the boat. The water was brilliant but anchoring in this narrow bay was rather difficult overall. It quickly gets deeper than 10m and there is a lot of seagrass. However, there are several large bollards ashore. Next time, depending on the wind, I would choose a bollard and try to set the anchor in the direction of that bollard; then I would take a shore line round the bollard with the dinghy and make fast the stern. Later we rounded Cape Pernat into the ACI Marina at Cres, because wind and rain (possibly with showers and thunderstorms) were forecast for Monday. We were fast at 1520h, Pier F [27nm, Marina €104/day]
In the evening we strolled about 1km along the waterfront promenade into the little town and dined very nicely and extremely deliciously at the restaurant Palada.
Monday was a harbour day and it rained repeatedly in showers, as forecast. Heavier thunderstorms fortunately passed by.
On Cres you can walk completely around the island on a coastal footpath and there are also many hiking trails through the hills (search: Hiking Cres). We walked from the marina westwards along the southern shore of the bay. From there you have a lovely view of the marina and the town and there are many small bathing coves.
On Tuesday a light summer bora was forecast, which was expected to increase here in the north during the evening and night into Wednesday. We therefore headed south to make either Osor or Mali Lošinj. We possibly wanted to swim at Zeča.
After Cape Pernat the wind freshened as forecast (10 gusting 20 knots). We peaked at 22 knots; the forecast maximum was 26 knots. We then sailed comfortably towards Zeča with the second reef in the main and varying amounts of genoa out. However, it was too fresh for swimming that day and overcast all day long. So we pressed on towards Mali Lošinj. Behind the mountain (Lošinj) we had to motor the last stretch as the wind was blanketed. In the evening it cleared up nicely in Mali Lošinj and we had a swim at Bojčić town beach. Cast off Marina Cres 0915 h, moored Mali Lošinj 1615 h. [34 nm, town harbour €70]
Today we visited Nostromo, the Gault Millau restaurant right by the pontoon, and once again it was absolutely delicious. 🙂
On Wednesday we set off in our pyjamas again, though not until 0930 h, and were already moored in the inner harbour at Susak by 1130 h. The children had breakfast on deck during the short hop to Susak. It was quite choppy, though, because of all the motorboats. [8 nm, inner harbour €68 + €10 water]
Susak was lovely! We swam and splashed about a lot. Highlights were the shallow water with sandy beach for our little one (5) and the diving tower from the quay wall (complete with pallet platform) for my middle one (13) and me. In the evening at sunset we walked the circular trail to the photo point in the west and arrived back at the harbour just as the last light faded.
On Thursday we had a long lie-in and simply sailed once round Srakane into Uvala Maracol to pick up a buoy. On the way we were able to do a bit of beating to windward in light winds. We were met by a black motorboat whose owner helped us moor. We cost the man some patience, as your skipper (yours truly) was a bit slow on the uptake as to which line should be made fast where.
Along Srakane we were able to tack a little close-hauled. Cast off 1215 h, moored 1445 h. [11 nm, €50 incl. rubbish disposal]
We walked back over to Unije town for the sunset (20 min); also a very lovely walk.
On Friday we set off on the return journey to Pomer, first to the fuel dock in Medulin, where we had to wait around 30 minutes. The fuel dock charged 30 cents more than all the other fuel stations we'd seen during the week. We arrived at the fuel dock at about 4 p.m. and there were 2 boats ahead of us. After us, another 3 boats arrived. The waiting was unfortunately rather chaotic, as the skippers of the other boats seemed to prefer it tight and stressful rather than waiting for their own slot with sufficient distance. The highlight was a large catamaran with a German skipper who thought he had to weave his way between the waiting boats... We were able to sail across the Kvarner a bit close-hauled, which was very nice. Departed Maracol at 11:15 a.m. [22 nm]
A very lovely week for swimming and feasting; next year everyone wants to do two weeks. The Oceanis 40.1 is ideal for us as a family. 104 nautical miles in total.
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