Sailing on the French Riviera: Trip report from France's most beautiful coast

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Jumping from the bathing platform into crystal-clear water, the Maritime Alps as a panorama in the background, with world-famous coastal resorts such as Saint-Tropez, Cannes, Nice, Antibes and Monaco in between: Welcome to the Côte d'Azur! This trip report describes a week-long sailing trip along the most famous section of the French Mediterranean coast. The departure harbour is Bormes-les-Mimosas and the route heads east to Antibes. On the return journey, the Îles d'Hyères are called at.

 

Sailing area: French Mediterranean coast/Côte d'Azur
Route: Bormes-les-Mimosas – Saint-Tropez – Antibes – Îles de Lérins – Fréjus – Îles d'Hyères – Bormes-les-Mimosas
Nautical miles: 162
Travel dates: Mid-September 2021
Sailing yacht: Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410 (built 2020)
Charter company: Kiriacoulis Mediterranean

 

Saturday – Arrival in Bormes-les-Mimosas

The Côte d'Azur stretches from Cassis to Menton on the Italian border. The departure harbour for our trip lies in Bormes-les-Mimosas, roughly in the middle, and is considered an ideal starting point both for trips heading west towards Marseille and for our planned trip heading east towards Menton.

Bormes-les-Mimosas has a modern marina with around 950 berths, a fuel station and various restaurants. Beaches and shops (offering delivery service to the boat) are within walking distance.

Our home for the coming week is to be a Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 410 (built 2020). The yacht is equipped with roller furling genoa, fully battened mainsail, bow thruster, bathing platform, 3 cabins with double berths, 2 heads (each with WC and separate shower). We, a 6-member charter crew from Berlin and Aschaffenburg, are surprised by the amount of space on a 41-footer. A special feature of the yacht is the side decks which slope downwards aft, making it possible to move from the cockpit to the foredeck without having to climb over the cockpit coaming. The handover with the charter company was straightforward and quick. Overall the yacht was in very good condition and should give us no problems during the week. The only noticeable thing was that the charter company checked neither the sails during handover nor during return. There was also no diving survey of the yacht on return.

 

Sunday – Bormes-les-Mimosas to Saint-Tropez/Marines de Cogolin – 30 nautical miles

The first day of sailing treats us to perfect sailing weather straight away. The weather apps and the notice at the harbour master's office predict force 6 winds from a north-westerly direction, so we cast off in the morning heading for Saint-Tropez. For booking berths we use the Navily app, to which almost all marinas in France are connected. Once you've entered your boat details, you can request a berth with one click. Confirmation usually follows within a few minutes. The app also includes a comments section where users review marinas and anchorages, which we found useful.

We sail the entire distance to Cap de Saint-Tropez under genoa alone. The yacht's performance is surprisingly good, so we average a speed of 7.5 knots.

After rounding the cape and entering the Gulf of Saint-Tropez, the wind strengthens and reaches force 8 in the gusts. The harbour of Saint-Tropez is closed due to the wind blowing directly into the harbour entrance. We radio (channel 9 for all marinas along the Côte d'Azur) the better-protected Marina de Cogolin further west and get a berth there in the outer harbour basin 'La Brigantine'. The mooring manoeuvre went smoothly; within the marina the wind had also dropped off considerably. After the obligatory mooring beer, the skipper sets off to the harbour master's office to pay the harbour fees. It turns out to be a longer expedition. The sheer size of the marina with its 1,500 berths only becomes apparent on the walk around the harbour basins. There and back takes a good hour and a half. The next morning we cover the distance by dinghy.

We spend the evening in the lanes and at the harbour of Saint-Tropez, which we reach by public bus (3 euros).

 

Monday – Marines de Cogolin to Antibes – 35 nautical miles

The second day also starts with perfect sailing conditions in continuing northerly winds (force 4-5). Shortly after leaving the marina we hoist our mainsail for the first time and set off towards Antibes. We enjoy the view of the Maritime Alps, pass the Îles d'Hyères, Cap d'Antibes and arrive in Antibes in the early afternoon.

The harbour of Vauban-Antibes, with its 1,700 berths, is one of the largest in Europe and is home to some of the longest and most expensive superyachts in the world at the 'Billionaires' Quay'.

The harbour lies directly between the old town and Fort Carré, the fortress complex perched on a rock which offers a fascinating view over the town of 75,000 inhabitants.

Antibes is known for its beautiful old town, surrounded by fortification walls from the 16th century. Here you'll also find the Picasso Museum, housed in the artist's former studio. We end the day with a stroll through the lanes of the old town, dinner in the open hall of the Provençal market and a visit to the absinthe bar.

 

Tuesday – Antibes to Îles de Lérins – 15 nautical miles

The original plan to sail as far as Menton and visit Monaco was abandoned due to the forecast light winds. We use the time gained for a morning hike at Cap d'Antibes. We take the bus to Plage de la Garoupe, where the hiking trail begins. The walk follows the wild and rugged coastline, past impressive villas, small bays and beaches. The approximately 4.5 km takes about 2 hours.

Impressions from Cap d'Antibes:

Around midday we cast off and head for the Îles de Lérins, a small group of islands off the coast of Cannes. We anchor between the island of Saint-Marguerite and the island of Saint-Honorat in 6 metres depth on sand. On the larger island (Saint-Marguerite) there was once a prison, whose most famous inmate was the legendary Man in the Iron Mask. On the smaller island there is a monastery with vineyards attached. Wine tastings are also offered regularly here.

Wind and swell are positioned exactly between the islands and thus directly onto our anchorage. Still somewhat restless at first, it becomes calmer towards nightfall. We spend the rest of the day swimming and sunbathing and enjoy the sunset over Cannes.

 

Wednesday – Îles d'Hyères to Fréjus – 20 nautical miles

Overnight the wind and thus the yacht have turned, so we can now also watch the sunrise from the best position in the cockpit.

After breakfast we weigh anchor. Today's destination is to be a marina in order to refill our water tanks and provisions. On the Côte d'Azur one is spoilt for choice: there seems to be a marina every few nautical miles here. Today's decision falls on Fréjus. A modern marina with approximately 700 berths. The reservation via Navily and the briefing by the marina staff worked flawlessly. Our own mooring lines are not required; the marina staff hand us the stern lines fixed to the pontoon.

 

In the early evening we walk along the promenade to Saint-Raphaël, where we also stop at a fish restaurant in the old town.

 

Thursday – Fréjus to Port Cros – 40 nautical miles

In the morning we stock up on provisions at the nearby supermarket for the next two days. The danger of arriving at the next harbour without a sundowner is averted for the time being.

For the first part of the day we have planned an extended bathing stop at Plage de Pampelonne, hoping to have our lunch snack at the legendary Club 55 (the mother of all beach bars). Unfortunately the onshore wind and rather high waves do not permit anchoring.

We do not see any other boat anchored at the beach in these waves and continue our way to today's destination, Port Cros. Port-Cros is one of the three large islands of the Îles d'Hyères archipelago.

The harbour offers 75 berths and 40 chargeable buoys. Neither berths nor buoys can be reserved; only early arrival helps. We pick up a buoy close to the coast in 3 metres depth. The water is crystal clear and one can admire the fish and seagrass from the boat.

The entire island is a nature reserve (a condition of the former owning family who transferred the island to the French state) and is car-free with only a few exceptions.

We spend the evening in one of the restaurants in the harbour and in the adjacent cocktail bar.

 

Friday – Port Cros via Île de Porquerolles to Bormes-les-Mimosas – 22 nautical miles

Part of the crew starts the day with a swim in the turquoise water, the other part sets off on a morning hike and explores the various fortifications near the harbour.

The route goes past Fort du Moulin, Fort de l'Estissac up to Fort de l'Éminence. Along the way there are very beautiful views of the bay of Port-Cros.

On the last day we head a bit further west towards Île de Porquerolles. Here we anchor in 5 metres depth at Plage de la Courtade for an extensive bathing stop. Some of us set off along the beach towards Port de Porquerolles.

 

We make the return journey to Bormes-les-Mimosas under engine. At the marina's fuel station we fill up the diesel tank. The handover of the yacht takes place the next morning and proceeds without any issues.

The crew extends the weekend in Nice and Monaco. Here are a few more impressions:

Fancy a sailing trip? Find one here Sailing opportunities in France or for Sailing in the Mediterranean.